1. South America

The Gauchos of Estancia La Fortuna, Argentina

Our Antarctic cruise started and ended in Buenos Aires, Argentina so we decided to take an end of cruise excursion to the Estancia La Fortuna, a working cattle ranch west of the capital city. After a hour bus ride our tour of 50 arrived at the ranch headquarters, a beautiful French villa. We were greeted by the owner. He introduced his gauchos who would entertain us that morning. It began with a game they play on horseback called La Sortila.

La Sortija" (the ring) is played with two upright wooden posts about ten feet high, crossed by a beam ... In the middle of this cross-beam, and underneath loosely suspended a brass ring. A Gaucho, galloping at the fastest beneath this, and using a wooden dowel attempts to put the ring on his dowel all the while on horseback and riding as fast as possible. The younger gauchos could not compete with the older gaucho and he won the game. He rode over to my wife and gave her the brass ring. I think it was because she spoke fluent Spanish and connected with them.
During the morning show of horsemanship, the ranch cook was busy cooking. Argentinians are meat eaters, they love anything roasted. Remember this guy is cooking for 50-60 people.
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  • La Fortuna French villa

    La Fortuna French villa

    Estancia La Fortuna The Story Behind the Photo: Estancia La Fortuna At the end of our Antarctica cruise in March of 2008 we had a choice of waiting 13 hrs in the airport or going on a Princess excursion to a working Pampa’s ranch named Estancia La Fortunia. It was about 200 km from Buenos Aires so it was about a 3 hour drive by bus. The tour promised an Argentinean lunch to boot. There were about 80 of us that took the tour. We arrived at the ranch around 9:30 and we were met by the owners. They were warm and gracious and very proud of their estate. They introduced us to the dozen gauchos who would entertain us for the next four hours. Guests were given the option of riding a horse or taking a ride in two horse buggy driven by one of the gauchos. MA chose to ride a horse, however, I chose to grab my Nikon and put my 70-200mm lens on for the day. The gauchos seemed to relish having their photo taken by me. These South American cowboys are excellent horsemen. They ride an Argentinian breed called a Creole, similar to our quarter horse. It is short legged and wide bodied. Gauchos dress for the job of handling cattle on the Pampa. The gaucho typically wears baggy pants which allows them to mount and dismount quickly. The pants are topped with normally a wide leather belt. Some belts have coins for decoration. He carries a knife in a sheath stuck in the middle of his back. The knife was used to butcher cattle on the pampa. Beef is the main food staple of the Pampa gauchos. I noticed a large bonfire and open racks of meat. The cooks had started roasting enough beef, pork, chicken to feed the lot of us. I was getting hungry smelling the roasting meats. Before lunch we were treated to the gaucho game of “Sortija.” Sortija is a gaucho game that consists of a metal ring which is placed high on an arch suspended with a string. The object of the game is to spear the ring with a wooden dowel (see above photo) all which galloping on horseback as fast as possible. The game takes great horse skills as well as a steady arm and sharp eyesight. The reward is always a kiss from the girl he chooses among the spectators. The oldest gaucho beat all of the younger ones and he rode over to where my wife was sitting and gave her the ring. She kissed him on the cheek. I think my wife’s excellent Spanish had something to do with him choosing her. At lunch we were treated to as much as we could eat. The beef ribs were out of sight as well as the steak. There were all kinds of vegetables to go with the meats. After lunch we were treated to music and an Argentinean dance group and music of Argentina. The bus ride took us right to the airport and we boarded our plane on time for the 12 hr flight back to Houston.

  • Wife's horseback ride

    Wife's horseback ride

  • Gauchos ride a breed called the Argentina Criollo or creole.  The horse is fast, short legs and wide body.  It was bred to handle the cattle of the pampas.

    Gauchos ride a breed called the Argentina Criollo or creole. The horse is fast, short legs and wide body. It was bred to handle the cattle of the pampas.

  • Sortija

    Sortija

    This gaucho game is called sortija. It consists of a metal ring, which is placed high on an arch suspended on a string. Gauchos have to catch the small ring with a long wooden lance about the size of a pencil all the while at a full gallop on horseback. This game takes great horseman skills as well as a steady arm and sharp eyesight. The reward is always a kiss from a girl he chooses among the spectators. This old gaucho caught the ring and then gave it to my wife, Mary Alice, along with a kiss on the cheek. I think it was because of her excellent Spanish and good looks. His horse is a Criollo breed (in Spanish), or Crioulo (in Portuguese). It is the native horse of Uruguay (1910), Argentina (1918), Brazil (1932) and Paraguay brought to South America by the Spanish conquistadors. The horse breed has a reputation for long-distance endurance linked to a low basal metabolism. The breed, known for its hardiness and stamina, is popular in its home countries. This is the breed horse of the gauchos. Distinguishing features: Compact and strong, straight or convex head, broad chest, well-developed joints, small in stature. The gauchos are superb horsemen and take pride in their animals. I caught the old gaucho giving his horse a shower after the games. Check out the gallery: https://birdshooter.smugmug.com/SouthAmerica/The-Gauchos-of-Estancia-La/

  • The old gaucho changed hats for the race.

    The old gaucho changed hats for the race.

  • A gaucho's belt not only holds up his baggy pants, it also holds his knife and becomes a status symbol with the coin decorations.

    A gaucho's belt not only holds up his baggy pants, it also holds his knife and becomes a status symbol with the coin decorations.

  • Gauchos wear a silver belt to hold up their pants (bombachas).   The belts are often decorated with silver and coins and are a status symbol with other gaucho and the girls.

    Gauchos wear a silver belt to hold up their pants (bombachas). The belts are often decorated with silver and coins and are a status symbol with other gaucho and the girls.

  • Gauchos wear a long knife on their belt called a "facon".  It is primarily used to butcher beef cattle, their main staple.

    Gauchos wear a long knife on their belt called a "facon". It is primarily used to butcher beef cattle, their main staple.

  • This guy could star in any spaghetti western.

    This guy could star in any spaghetti western.

  • 002_20080306_Argentina_LaFortuna_Estancio_Gauchos_006_Old_Gaucho

    002_20080306_Argentina_LaFortuna_Estancio_Gauchos_006_Old_Gaucho

  • Gaucho's warm smile made everyone feel welcomed

    Gaucho's warm smile made everyone feel welcomed

  • This young gaucho was trying to be so serious, smiled after my wife told him that he was the handsomist gaucho there.

    This young gaucho was trying to be so serious, smiled after my wife told him that he was the handsomist gaucho there.

  • Gauchos typically wear two types of hats, the leather brim hat and the beret.  This gaucho wears the beret.  I liked this photograph because all you can see under his beret is the catch light in both eyes.

    Gauchos typically wear two types of hats, the leather brim hat and the beret. This gaucho wears the beret. I liked this photograph because all you can see under his beret is the catch light in both eyes.

  • This young gaucho looked so serious but my wife got him to smile after she told him that he was the handsomest gaucho there.,

    This young gaucho looked so serious but my wife got him to smile after she told him that he was the handsomest gaucho there.,

  • He drove one of the buggies.

    He drove one of the buggies.

  • PTA_0478

    PTA_0478

  • This guy was the enduring image of the gaucho that stayed with us.

    This guy was the enduring image of the gaucho that stayed with us.

  • Two young gauchos

    Two young gauchos

  • Gaucho taxi

    Gaucho taxi

  • These gauchos and chinas performed traditional Argentina folk dances.

    These gauchos and chinas performed traditional Argentina folk dances.

  • Argentina folk dancers

    Argentina folk dancers

  • Singing gaucho

    Singing gaucho

  • Dancing with the bolleros

    Dancing with the bolleros

  • The gaucho's wife is known as a "china".  I'm not sure if this girl was married but she could really dance.

    The gaucho's wife is known as a "china". I'm not sure if this girl was married but she could really dance.

  • Coals from a wood fire were picked up with a shovel and placed under the meat.

    Coals from a wood fire were picked up with a shovel and placed under the meat.

  • In addition to beef, we were also served roasted chicken.

    In addition to beef, we were also served roasted chicken.

  • These ribs were so juicy and tasty.  They were cooked just like you see them.

    These ribs were so juicy and tasty. They were cooked just like you see them.

  • Gaucho games

    Gaucho games

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